is roughly 120 miles further East of Zwickau.
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| EMW 340 Ambulance |
We decided to go straight to the Wartburg Museum in Eisenach, which is situated
in part of the old car factory AWE, rather than first checking into our Hotel.
The drive only took 1 hr 45 mins as it was mostly Autobahn and we arrived at the
museum with about 2.5 hours to go before it closed.
The museum is a cracker, although much smaller and less grand than the one
in Zwickau. It was more homely and relaxed though and we saw only two other
people there the whole time we were in it.
The cars though were in superb condition and showed the full range of cars made
there in their production history that dates back to 1898.
We saw Austin 7's built under license in the 1920's to the Bmw's of the thirties and
forties and the EMW models built in the early fifties,
right through all the Wartburgs models from 1955-1991, until the factory closed.
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| EMW 327 Cabriolet 1953 |
This factory was the old Bmw factory before WWII and like Dkw in Zwickau, Bmw
left for West Germany when their Eisenach factory and it's presses, tooling
and pretty much anything of value in the East was about to be plundered by the Soviets and
sent back to Mother Russia.
Unfortunately for Bmw, Eisenach was in the heart of the Soviet Sector, despite the
fact it was actually American forces that liberated Eisenach in 1945.
The Soviets had no compassion for Bmw, who had been making Aircraft engines
for the German war effort in this very factory.
With the stripping of the factory imminent, the workers at the plant managed to assemble
a few cars from salvaged parts and components they managed to forage and gather.
This showed the Soviets what the factory and its skilled work force were capable of
turning out and this in turn persuaded the Soviets that the factory was worthy of remaining
open and plans were drawn up for its rebuilding and recommissioning.
The workers in the immediate aftermath of the War had had to content themselves with
making wheel barrows and handcarts , so this news must have exceeded their hopes and
expectations.
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| IFA F9 Built in Eisenach |
After the War and Bmw left their Eisenach Works to the Communists, the pre-war
Bmw models continued to be made and sold from Eisenach (mostly export sales).
The continued to be badged as Bmw's until 1952, when Bmw took the factory to court
for continuing to use their brand. Thus, the cars were then made same as before, but
now branded as EMW's ( Eisenach Motor Works). They even used the same style
of badge, but substituted the blue squares of Bmw for red ones ( Red signified
Communism of course).
The museum has some superb examples of these cars on display and the quality
of the workmanship is a joy to behold. The paint and quality of the coachwork and
flowing lines rival the cars produced by Horch in Zwickau.
That car makers were capable of producing such superb feats of engineering and
finish in these times is hard to believe and a real eye opener.
The 340 and 328 models are particularly fetching and cars to be put on the wanted list
for when I win the National Lottery!
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| EMW Badge |
Production of the EMW's stopped in 1955 and car production here would be
for two stroke vehicles until some Wartburgs were produced briefly in 1989/1990
with a four stroke engine.
The IFA F9 had been made in Zwickau from 1950-53 and this was now switched
to Eisenach, who made it up until 1956.
This was a popular car in East Germany and it was available in many formats,
saloons, estates, cabriolets and commercial variants.
I know from research that the workforce that had learnt its skills building Bmw's and
Emw's were more than a touch dispondent to find themselves now building the F9
which was seen as a mass produced and somewhat basic car.
Their enthusiasm and optimism returned though with the development of the 311,
whose stylish looks and classy design more than made up for whatever reservations they
had about using two stroke engines.
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| F9 built in Eisenach 1954 |
The Wartburg 311 appeared in 1955 and was built exclusively at the Eisenach
Works. Although it had a new, very beautiful body, the engine, gearbox and
chassis came from the F9, which the new car replaced.
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| Fabulous 311 cabriolet |
The name 'Wartburg' was also reintroduced as a car marque, but not until 1960,
the name having been dormant for many years.
Using the major mechanical components from the F9, enabled the IFA to
produce what looked like a totally new car, and keep development costs down
to a minimum. ( in modern times, Peugeot and their sister company Citroen have done this
to great and profitable effect. Likewise VW have done the same with Seat and Skoda
sharing platforms and engines.)
Although the chassis was the same, the 311 is a bigger car than the F9, with more
road presence and usable space inside the car.
The engine of course was developed by Dkw in 1939, but held back by the War
and first used by the Communists since 1950, whereas Dkw took time to regroup
in the West and didn't get to use their own engine until 1953.
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| Wartburg 313/1 |
All the cars made here from this point onwards would use the separate chassis
that these days, Wartburgs have become famous for.
The chassis is remarkably sturdy and resists rust particularly well, helped by
the rust-proofing carried out at the factory.
Later models would have a revised chassis that had coil springs at each wheel,
but otherwise the chassis shape and solidity remained the same.
The early cars had leaf sprung suspension that gave the 311 unparalleled cornering
abilities for its time, as the set up virtually eliminated body roll.
311's from its inception in 1956 to 1960, were branded 'Eisenacher', with Wartburg
being the model, not the brand.
From 1960 onwards the brand was known as 'Wartburg' and the car was known as
the Wartburg 1000.
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| Gorgeous interior 311 cabriolet |
Looking at the various 311's in the factory museum, they were a thing of beauty
which is unusual for cars made under Communist enterprise of any era.
Communist vehicles typically are made for ruggedness, simplicity and ease of
maintenance, and ascetic properties.
The 311 and to a lesser extent, the F9 had the rugged and simplistic traits, but
also embodied flowing lines, luxury of fittings and pure look of quality that harked more
from the BMW/EMW era than from a Communist one.
In 1962, the engine 900cc engine of the 311 was changed for the new 991cc, 2 stroke
unit with more power and higher speed.
It's only when you see the 311 and the F9 side by side, that you appreciate the
difference and what an accomplishment the styling of the 311 was.
The F9 viewed separately is a very nice looking car, but next to the 311 it looks
somewhat cheap and crude.
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| Wartburg 311 Limousine |
The early 311's had 37hp , while the new one had 45hp. The 0-60 time was also improved
by 6 seconds on the standard cars respectively.
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| 313/1 Isn't it a beauty? |
The 311 was a gorgeous looking car in all its variants and there were many of them.
Saloons, Convertibles, Coupe's, estates, coupes, even Army versions.
The Sports coupes made are in my view absolutely fantastic looking and
are the most desirable two stroke cars ever produced by anybody.
The 313 Sportwagen Coupe and Convertible models are arguably the pick of
the cars on display in this museum.
They had two carburettors and were only produced from 1957-1960, so used
the 900cc engine. Nevertheless they produced 50 Hp and had a top speed of
140 Km/h. They had sumptuous leather seats and when you look at them, you
could just as easily believe you're looking a Mercedes, the appearance and overall
quality apparent, being of the same standard.
I don't know why they named it the 313, as it is the same as the 311, other than
the changes mentioned.
Other notables in the museum are the 311 Convertibles and the Camping, estate
versions offering great versatility and practicality with style.
The 312 model replaced the 311 in 1965 and was produced for less than 2 years.
It was a cross over model used to test a new chassis that had been developed
with coil springs. The body looked the same but it had a wider front track
and later models would use a different carburettor.
The other changes of note at this time was a new gear box and newly designed
drive shafts that used needle bearings and were far advanced for their time.
In time the power output increased from 45 to 50 hp, yet even with this increase
the 311 is regarded as being faster than the 353.
The coil springs gave the car a softer ride over poor road surfaces, but also increased
body roll and lesser cornering ability at speed than the transverse leaf springs.
The reason for this model was for the impending new car that Wartburg were
putting the finishing touches to and would be the Wartburg 353 which was
available to buy from 1966.
Gone were the flowing curved lines of before and replaced by a 3 box type
design, so commonplace amongst Communist car manufacturers from this
point onwards.
It would have been seen at the time I suppose as modern and progressive,
especially with an eye to what the West were producing at the time, but
with the benefit of hindsight, I think this styling was a mistake.
The 353 shared the engine of the 312, albeit in time with an incease in Hp and
of course the chassis etc. Basically it was the 312 with a new body in the same way
the IFA F9 was used in the development of the 311.
The early 353's were the nicest as they used quite a bit of chrome in the
bumpers and trim etc. They also appear to have had better seats and are not as austerely
finished as later models became.
The finish of the 353's got cheaper as time went on and this probably reflects the overall
state of the Gdr at the time throughout the eighties. They were hemorrhaging money
as fast as their planned economy and 'Workers Paradise' was failing.
The export models of the 353 were much better finished than those for their own
domestic market and the cars that went to other Communist States.
By the mid eighties, the chrome trim was replaced with plastic, the switchgear inside
the cars had a cheaper feel and the seats were of a lesser quality.
Although the 353 was a good car and mechanically similar to the 311, it's a poor
looking car by comparision, in terms of style and visual appeal.
It was utilarian, robust and practical, none more so than the estate version known
as the Tourist.
The Tourist is practical and a great load lugger, but the estate styling is even boxier
than the saloon and looks very Eastern European, and Lada-like.
I think the styling of the 311 reflects the hope of a new country, the establishment
of the Gdr and all its hope and dreams for the future. The bland, cost cutting,
practical styling of the last 353's by comparison reflects the failure of those dreams
and a country falling apart at its political and financial seams, hanging on and making do
as best they can.
The 353 used basically the same engine as the 311, with only minor changes until
1989, when it got the four stroke 1.3 VW Polo/Golf engine fitted until the factory
dissolved and was bought out by Opel in 1991.
The IFA had been making this engine under contract for a few years and also
the 1.1( 1043cc) engine that saw use in the final Trabants, for VW and probably
received the engines in part payment.
As in the case of the last Trabants, it was thought these engines would make the
two home grown cars more appealing to their own people who could buy any
Western brand of car they liked since the Wall opened in Nov '89.
It was a vain effort and one that failed on both counts.
Eisenach itself is a nice looking Town, dominated by the Wartburg Castle that was
used by Martin Luther. It's quite hilly and almost Alpine looking in it's layout,
appearance and style of its houses.
The Town centre is quite small and easily traversed on foot.
There's not much to it really but the streets have a nice layout and everything
is compact and easily accessible within a small area.
Like Zwickau though, after 7pm it seemed empty and dead.
I had booked a Hotel/Guest House in advance in 'Villa Bomberg' a 3 storey
house that was most unusual in its layout and style, but very comfortable and
very nice.
It was roughly towards the Castle if heading there from the Town Centre, set
back amidst a nice residential area. Parking was freely available on the street
outside which was welcome as there was no private car park.
The Vendor made clear to me that I was best to leave the car on the street
and walk into the Town, rather than park there.
After the experience in Zwickau with the parking ticket, I knew exactly
what he was saying!
The Vendor was an extremely nice and helpful man, who although only
spoke a minimum of English, made himself understood with gestures.
The Room here was 50 euros for the night, with 5 euros extra per person
each for breakfast.
Rooms in Eisenach are a bit dearer than those available elsewhere in Germany
as the Town receives a bit more Tourism than the likes of Zwickau and Chemnitz.
My internet search beforehand yielded only the 'Ibis' Hotel as being slightly cheaper
than our choice and it was outside the town a bit and had a lower star rating.
I've stayed in Ibis hotels before and it would have been very similar to the Etap
in Zwickau, but at about double the price.
Villa Bomberg was a good choice and I would recommend it. The house was
very warm and comfortable in contrast to the minus ten weather outside.
After a good night's sleep and a nice breakfast, We set off back towards Berlin,
via Frankenburg, near Chemnitz, where we had arranged to see the Framo/Barkas
Factory Museum there.
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